Date: 14-Jul-99 09:28 AM
Author: Auto-X
Subject: Help with adjusting camber - Nitro? Anyone?

Hi all,

I have a 1995 Honda Civic EX Coupe with Eibach front and rear camber kits.

I'd like to adjust my camber for 2.5 front and 1.5 rear for autocrossing and road racing. However, the cost of getting an alignment done before and after each race is cost prohibitive for me.

I am looking for some sort of modification that will allow me to set up my car for racing and return the camber specs to 0 for normal driving. Is there some sort of camber plate or "crash bolt" that I can buy or fabricate?

Please advise, and thanks in advance for helping me.


Date: 14-Jul-99 02:28 PM
Author: NITRO
Subject: RE: Help with adjusting camber - Nitro? Anyone?

Although we run our cars pretty much "as is" in autoX competition, we normally run a little more camber than 2 degrees up front and 1.5+ in the rear. Our tires last well over 30K (hard)miles and the wear is even across the tires. My best recomendation is to have the alignment set for the street and either use adjustable lower spring seats or clips that'll allow you to raise it and lower the lower seat precisely. The toe-in would be off for the lowered position, but if each corner is dropped the same amount, you should pick up some camber that you desire for the car. Measure the camber when you have everything set up and you'll know what it is in either position. We have been using additional grooves that we machine in the lower shock body and we simply move the spring clips (like Koni's) where ever we want. We machine the grooves every .200" and it permits us to fine tune the car (not as good as screw variety, but dirt doesn't ruin the threads either) and there's no problem moving the clips and returning the car to it's original settings. Another way to do it is to machine a spring clip groove that's in the lowered position, so when you're racing that can be the lower limit. Find some tubing that's ID is the same as the OD of the shock body. Cut a length, which when added to the lower clip position will raise the effective spring seat up to the street position. Cut the tube in half, then raise the car, place each half around the shock body and use a good stainless hose clamp around the tube spacers to retain them. It may sound pretty rinky-dink, but they will not break and keep in mind that old racers have to be good at making do on the run, and it's easy. If nothing else, it's a good way to find locations prior to building a more cosmetic arrangement.