J & S SafeGuard

Posted by T.O.O. on April 30, 1998 at 16:58:45:

Please accept my appologies for the pricing information. All the units I had previously purchased came from Oscar Jackson, and the price was $1K with an additional $250.00 for the display. After reading your post, I made time to call John personally and he mentioned that you had called and that you were overjoyed at the price. I then asked what the price was, only to find that my PHD from Jackson University had cost a lot more than I previously thought. We now plan on including the J & S unit with the kits we sell, as it's simply a good safety measure, and I doubt that anyone will object to a slight price increase to cover the unit, we'll see. Getting "special deals" like OJ's, are some of the reasons we're entering this market.
.................................T.O.O. .............................................

Re: J & S SafeGuard

Posted by civicduty (civicduty@webtv.net) on May 01, 1998 at 11:38:27:
In Reply to: civicduty and J & S SafeGuard posted by body on April 30, 1998 at 16:58:45:

Thanks! I DID call him to check it out. He was very helpful.....I'm waiting on the info from the mail now....The only problem I see, is that it isn't an "ignition" I wanted an amplifier---unless you don't think I need one...By the way, what is a T/A sensor?? Mine was totally disconnected. (it came loose)

Re: J & S SafeGuard

Posted by T.O.O. on May 01, 1998 at 19:43:05:
In Reply to: Re: civicduty and J & S SafeGuard posted by body on May 01, 1998 at 11:38:27:

It's a steal at the "real price". It does boost the voltage at the spark plug some, as well as providing total "peace of mind" when it comes to detonation prevention and control.
The T/A sensor being totally disconnected is probably the reason you have some detonation. The Jackson kit requires that you place a resistor in the red wire which goes from the sensor to the ECU. The resistance will usaully want to be between 5K and 12K ohms. I recomend that you go to a RadioShack and buy a 0 - 10K potiatometer, and also a 5 K resistor (they're about 6 to a pack for $1.75), and wire that into the T/A circuit. Make sure the 10 K pot. is linear taper. Wire it in and you can adjust your fuel mixture while you drive. Mount the pot. in one of the small dash "pop outs", put a knob on it and your off to the races.
The SafeGuard and the air / fuel meter are still great, because you can see if the engine is rich or lean looking at the meter. By the way, the T/A sensor measures the air temperature the engine is breathing. As the temperature goes up, the resistance goes down and the ECU leans the fuel mixture accordingly. If the temp goes down, the resistance will go up and the ECU thinks "cold, need more fuel", and that's what you trick the ECU into thinking with the potientiameter, the beauty is that you can adjust your mixture as you please.
.............................. T.O.O. ..................................................

Re: J & S SafeGuard

Posted by T.O.O. on May 01, 1998 at 21:06:59:
In Reply to: Re: civicduty and J & S SafeGuard posted by body on May 01, 1998 at 07:30:08:

The J & S SafeGuard is an electronic device that taps into a couple ECU - distributor wires. It also has a knock sensor that screws into the cylinder head...an un used bolt hole. The sensor can detect detonation that your ears would never hear, and when it does, it will retard the spark timing to eliminate the problem. It's unique because it's so accurate that you can set it to retard all cylinders or only the cylinder the detonation is coming from. It's sensitivity may be set as well...it will pull as much as 20 degrees of timing out in 2 degree increments with incredible speed, so no damage can occur. It also provides a slightly hotter spark...I still recomend an MSD-6AL, and the J & S also has a rev limiter in it. For an additional $150.00 you can get a small display "option" which splices into the O2 sensor and provides you with a continuous real time air / fuel ratio, as well as lighting red lights when it hears detonation...each light represents 2 degrees of timing it has removed.
For the price, we really can't afford not to incorporate the unit. While we do not see the need on a continuous basis, having a "fail safe" is smart....what if you get some shitty gas, it won't hurt your engine.....................T.O.O............
PS. As for improving performance, it doesn't really do much, but to allow the driver to see the air / fuel ratio, and the detonation, should some occur, gives me additional "peace of mind".

T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know?

Posted by civicduty (civicduty@webtv.net) on May 02, 1998 at 23:18:39:

I'm going to try your idea...(about controlling fuel mixture) Won't this affect the fuel regulator settings? Is this wired into the red/yellow stripe wire? The other resistor comes out?, and in place goes the 5k resistor?? How is the Pot wired in to the 5k resistor? and lastly, How do I go about adjusting the fuel mixture? Do I just make a pass at the strip, and if it knocks turn it back?? I am running 98 octane gas, and the car is STILL detonating at WOT!! The timing is set at 8 degrees, just like OJ said!! Of course, you are probably STILL pissed off that you paid 1 grand for the softtouch....I would be T.O.O.!!!see ya!

Re: T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know?

Posted by T.O.O. on May 03, 1998 at 19:04:20:
In Reply to: T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know? posted by body on May 02, 1998 at 23:18:39:

Go to Radio Shack and buy a pack of #RSU 11345006 5.1 K resistors. Also buy # 271-1715 (the linear taper potientiometer), and also get a knob for it.
Go to the red wite that goes to the T/A sensor (the JR resistor should be there- remove it), and either solder or make a good connection so the current will need to go through the resistor. At the open end of the resistor, solder on some 18 ga. insulated wire. Punch a hole in the rubber bootthe throttle cable comes through, and run the wire into the interior of the car. Solder the end to the pot. assuming you've selected a place for it and the knob...by the way, the pot's shaft will need to be shortened, but it's easy with a back saw or hack saw. On the middle leg of the pot, solder another length of wire which will run back out to connect to the red wire. To test the system...before soldering in the 5.1K resistor, solder it to the wire going to the pot. Take a multi testor and set it to ohms. connect one probe to the open end of the resistor, and with the pot rotated all the way, you should get 5.1K resistance. As you begin to rotate the knob the other way, the resistance should climb, ultimately to 15.1K ohms....max rich.
If this doesn't help, I'm wondering what you're running as an air duct and air cleaner because we've seen huge changes when eliminating the dinky flex tube and correctly plumbing the breather into one of the Thompson Tubes, which are designed specifically for the JR system, and they work very well. Let me know if you need help.
..............................T.O.O. ..............................................

Re: T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know?

Posted by civicduty (civicduty@webtv.net) on May 03, 1998 at 21:07:24:
In Reply to: Re: T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know? posted by body on May 03, 1998 at 19:04:20:

I am running the AEM cold air intake with a K&N filter attached.... I had a nipple welded onto the AEM to draw air in for the crankcase ventilation.....The air intake is a "cold" one about a foot off the ground. I also cut out th plastic piec below it so I could get good flow into the filter. I also considered making a scoop (kinda like a hood scoop, but turned upside down)to draw even more air near the filter...Thanks for your very descriptive answers. I understand you don't have much time on your hands, so I'll leave you alone for a while!!

Re: T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know?

Posted by T.O.O. on May 05, 1998 at 11:14:26:
In Reply to: Re: T.O.O. What is a Linear Taper Pot?? How do I know? posted by body on May 03, 1998 at 21:07:24:

Despite the magazine tests, the AEM unit is a constant velocity unit, and doesn't take advantage of manipulation of presssures to "force" smooth air into the throttle body.
The valve cover fitting is NOT designed to suck air out of the valve cover, and this may very well be your problem. Introduction of oil vapor to the inlet air/fuel mixture invites detonation. The fitting in the tube wasa designed by Honda to produce positive pressure at the valve cover...not negative. The positive pressure forces all the crankcase vapor to exit via the PCV valve. In order to develop positive pressure, you need to copy the stock Honda slash- cut tube, so the angled cut faces the air flow and acts like a scoop, providing head pressure.
If you have a problem with this let me know, and we'll arrange a fix. The fact that it detonates primarily in the upper gears leads me to believe that this is the source of all your trouble.................................T.O.O. ......................